Kassapa's Palace in the sky - Sigiriya

The continuous rain all night did not promise the best conditions for today’s event – climbing Sigiriya. However we left Giritale hotel at 8am hoping that the rain would ease, and it did. The drive to Sigiriya was a very pleasant one, especially when we left the main road and took a short cut through elephant country. We saw evidence that elephants had indeed been at the roadside very recently – branches of trees pulled low and piles of dung along the road. Some parts had areas with electric fences and there were notices warning not to stray off road as it was “Elephant Country” and “Elephant Crossing” so I was hoping that we would see one near the road however this was not to be the case.

Sigiriya's claim to fame is that it is a Royal Palace in the sky atop a huge rock that towers above the jungle plains below it - 370m [ 1,214ft ] above sea level. this came about because one Prince Kassapa in the 12th century ousted his father King Dhatusena from his throne in Anuradhapura. This did not go well with his brother and many of the King's loyal subjects so the Prince, who was now King Kassapa, had to flee in a hurry. He took himself and his entourage to Sigiriya where he had himself built a fortified Palace in the sky where he had, on a clear day, 360 degree views to see any approaching military threats.

As well as being a bit of a rogue, he also seems to have had an eye for beautiful things , notably the Art Gallery of beautiful maidens etched on the rock face about half way up the rock and several meticulously laid out gardens at the foot of the rock.

It was raining persistently but lightly when we arrived so it was umbrellas up and head for the start of many steps. As we were walking through the gardens at the front of the mountain the rain and mist eased slightly so we could see the lower half of the mountain. 

Lower Cave

The first flights of steps reached a lower cave so we stopped here for a few minutes then it was onwards and upwards, heading to the caves that had the pictures on the wall. These pictures are really lovely and worth the climb to this point, even if you go no further. The king seems to have liked beautiful things with the ladies colourfully adorned with jewels and holding a lotus flower.

A circular iron staircase was the access to this cave and while the steps were metal and quite sturdy, the hand rail had rusted away and part of it was flapping around causing me to scrape my arm while coming back down. Medical stop completed, we continued upwards to the lion’s paws which meant that the final ascent was imminent. 

The Lion Staircase

Circular Staircase to the Ancient Art Gallery

Still raining, we left Sam to take shelter in a shed that had been constructed for people to shelter from the hornets that are present in the dry months. As this had only netting for a roof, [ green shed in upper right of lower photo ] he still needed his umbrella!  At the first platform I stopped to wave to him and was glad that he had made it so far and would be waiting when I came down.

Looking down at top of lower hill.

The climb was quite easy as the metal steps were firm and the hand rail secure and there weren’t many other people climbing, thanks to the rain. By the time we reached the top, the rain had stopped and it was just misty.

Metal staircase - with handrail !

 Seeing a girl standing on the edge of a ruined building high on a mountain under a brightly coloured umbrella with bright white mist enveloping her was a vision to remember. 

Then the mist lifted a little and we could see more of the rock ruins. Brief patches of light between the passing waves of white allowed us to snatch a photograph or two looking out and down.

The King's Pool atop his rock

 Lucky showed us the King’s chair and his swimming pool and told us about what the archaeologists think the palace was like. 

King's Throne

On top of Sigiriya

A few more people were arriving as we headed back down to the Lion’s Paws where Sam was waiting. The mist was clearing more so we were able to take a few photos of the cliff face and stairs hanging off the edge.

From the Lion’s Paw  which is on the top of a hill, Lucky took us down the back was to show us the King’s Audience Hall and throne. 

Audience hall

Once again, the descent was as interesting and as much fun as the ascent and without Lucky we would have missed so much.

Cave

We then headed for Kandy, stopping at Dambulla Bakehouse but this time we had lunch upstairs in the air conditioned restaurant. We then headed for Kandy where we were to have two more nights.

 

Our tour of the Cultural Triangle has been very enjoyable as well as informative and fun. It helps to go with someone who not only knows his way around but is also very knowlegible and friendly. To have the best time, I fully recommend finding a good guide.

Next time, leaving Sri Lanka - but only for a few weeks and then we'll be back!